ZERMATT is defined by altitude, by the principle of the vertical, where the highest peaks in Switzerland tower overhead on all sides. To glide among the pale blue glaciers, breathing the hard, clean wind on nearly 200 miles of marked trails is the essence of skiing. The town is rich in history, dating back to the famously fatal climbing accident that ended the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn and cemented the town’s legend. Glitz and glamour may be the allure, but class and understatement are still the rule, with a mum discretion among its famous guests that would not be out of place in Zurich’s private banks.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) WATCH OUT
Ski trips usually begin with the realization of an absence, the taunting solitary glove or partnerless wool sock. Zermatt’s main commercial strip street, Bahnhofstrasse, can fill most worldly wants, as well as orient you to the town itself. Start at the train station and pop into the bakery Biner (Bahnhofplatz 4; 41-27-967-61-67; www.biner.ch) for mini baumnusstörtli, a Swiss walnut treat (3.20 francs, or about $2.60 at 1.25 francs to the dollar), to nibble as you walk the cobblestone lane. For luxury watches, visit Haute Horlogerie Schindler (Bahnhofstrasse 5; 41-27-967-11-18), which carries timepieces by Breguet, Blancpain and Vacheron Constantin. Duck into one of the kitschy cuckoo clock stores down the block to catch your breath from the five-figure price tags. It may be the first — but not the last — sticker shock you’ll encounter in Zermatt.
6 p.m.
2) MOUNTAIN ICON
The stark, jagged silhouette of the Matterhorn is the symbol of Zermatt, as well as a local obsession, featured on every photograph and logo as if required by law. To understand why, visit the subterranean Matterhorn Museum (Kirchplatz 11; 41-27-967-41-00; www.zermatt.ch/e/matterhornmuseum; admission, 10 francs). Enter through the 3-D glass rendering of the mountain jutting upward in the town’s Kirchplatz. Follow the stairs down to discover the village being excavated by archaeologists. Exhibitions range from a Neolithic stone ax to the very rope that snapped and sent four of the first climbers to reach the Matterhorn’s summit to their deaths. The museum is a good primer, but nothing resonates like the rough tombstones at the nearby church, where the climbers are buried.
8 p.m.
3) THE LILT OF LAMB
There are more than a few mediocre, yet overpriced, restaurants specializing in uninspired lamb dishes. The taxidermy and glitter-filled funhouse Chez Heini (Wiestistrasse 45; 41-27-967-16-30; www.dandaniell.ch) is the happy exception, a cult favorite in town for its food and madcap décor. The chef, Dan Daniell, tends to the succulent lamb on an open wood fire in one corner of the restaurant, with a four-course meal running a not-inexpensive 76 francs a person. But it comes with priceless entertainment. When the lights dim, the chef-cum-recording star grabs a microphone and serenades diners with his own brand of Switzo-pop, under a giant video screen showing helicopters swooping around the Matterhorn like a karaoke fusion of “The Swiss Family Robinson” and “Apocalypse Now.” Warning: You may find yourself singing his Matterhorn ditty for the remainder of your trip.
Saturday
8:30 a.m.
4) A CROSS-BORDER ADVENTURE
Embark on an extraordinary experience that will make you feel like you're in a real-life James Bond movie, without the need for tuxedos or roulette. Prepare for a thrilling ski adventure that takes you across the border. Begin by taking three gondolas up to the breathtaking Klein Matterhorn, standing at over 12,500 feet. Feel the rush as you ski through the pristine snow on Theodul glacier, a destination that offers year-round skiing thanks to its altitude. And when you're ready for a change of scenery, gracefully glide over the Plateau Rosa, and without a border post in sight, you'll find yourself in Italy.
As you descend the slopes of Italy, you may notice your cellphone buzzing to notify you of a new national carrier, solidifying your switch of nationality. For the perfect way to mark your successful mission, venture to Bontadini on the Italian side of the Theodul Pass and indulge in a revitalizing cappuccino on their inviting terrace.
1 p.m.
5) Savor Mountain Charm
Embark on a culinary adventure in Zermatt by starting your day at the quaint village of Findeln for a delightful lunch. Findlerhof bei Franz und Heidi is a must-visit restaurant that offers not only unbeatable views but also serves authentic Swiss classics that will leave you craving for more. Indulge in their mouthwatering quiche with leeks, onion, and cheese that has been hailed as a new standard among food enthusiasts. For a hearty and filling option, their rösti, a traditional Swiss potato pancake, is an excellent choice that will power you through a thrilling afternoon of skiing. Don't forget to make reservations as this popular spot often fills up quickly. As an additional tip, if you happen to be an expert skier, make sure to explore the famous moguls at the Triftji glacier, known for hosting the annual Bump Bash, a lively half-party, half-competition held in Zermatt every March. Beginners, however, should approach with caution!
4:30 p.m.
6) Unwind in Style
After an adventurous day on the slopes, there's no better way to embrace the après ski spirit than at Papperla Pub. Located on Steinmattenstrasse, this lively pub is renowned for its festive atmosphere and live bands playing classic rock tunes. Prepare to be entertained as revelers don creative costumes, ranging from gorillas to Teletubbies. Enhance your experience with a spin on the "Wheel of Drinks" for only 20 francs. This exciting game of chance offers a range of prizes, starting from four shots and potentially leading up to a bottle of their special house brew. While the recipe remains a well-guarded secret, rest assured that sambuca and Tia Maria are amongst the ingredients used. Be mindful that landing on the four shots of Evian water might be the only exception, but if you do hit this "aquatic snake eyes," the bartender will kindly offer a half-price second spin. Enjoy the cheerful ambiance and indulge in the vibrant après ski scene at Papperla Pub for an unforgettable evening in Zermatt.
8 p.m.
7) AN UNFORGETTABLE EVENING
After an exhilarating day on the slopes and some well-deserved après-ski activities, it's time to relax and rejuvenate. Skip the traditional nap and venture into Zermatt's ultimate nightlife destination, Vernissage (Hofmattstrasse 4; 41-27-967-66-36; www.vernissage-zermatt.com). More than just a bar, this extraordinary venue designed by the talented Heinz Julen offers a unique combination of art gallery, restaurant, and movie theater. Prepare to be amazed by the innovative design as glass panes shield the theater from the vibrant atmosphere upstairs. Indulge in a refreshing drink and unwind, knowing that during intermission, you'll be served dishes like tiger prawns or chicken with lentils—delicious fusion cuisine that serves as a delightful departure from traditional local fare. With prices starting at approximately 60 francs for both the meal and movie, Vernissage promises an unforgettable evening filled with culinary delights and captivating art.
10 p.m.
8) A TOUCH OF TARTAN
For a pick-me-up, stop by Edward’s Bar Cafe in the Hotel Monte Rosa (Bahnhofstrasse 80; 41-27-966-03-33; www.seiler-hotels.ch), the city’s oldest hotel, which is scheduled to reopen in a few days after renovations. The small bar is as cozy as an old pair of plaid pajamas, in large part because it is decorated in red and green tartan pattern, from the walls to the stool covers. Watch the bartender lovingly prepare your Irish coffee (15 francs), lighting the whiskey on fire and swirling it in the glass to melt the sugar.
Midnight
9) NOT QUITE DISNEY
The D.J.’s spin into the morning at Schneewittchen (German for “Snow White”), adjoining the Papperla Pub. Schneewittchen is the spot for foam parties, beach parties and a Heaven and Hell night, where partygoers dress like devils and angels, but no one acts like the latter. The Hotel Post (Bahnhofstrasse 41; 41-27-967-19-31; www.hotelpost.ch) has five bars and clubs, featuring everything from live music, laid-back lounges and the notorious Broken Bar Disco, where you can dance on a wine barrel into the morning.
Sunday
10 a.m.
10) SLIDEWAYS
Don’t let the innocent-looking wooden toboggan fool you. This is not taking your Flexible Flyer to the neighborhood hill. The Gornergrat toboggan course (41-27-921-47-11; www.gornergrat.ch/winter1/toboggan.php) is steep and curving, and for 8 francs an hour you can let gravity takes its course. Acceleration is rapid, and there are no brakes, except for your feet. So make like Fred Flintstone and plow down the speedy, combed turns and expect a hard wipeout or two. The adrenaline thrill will have you back up the hill in no time.
THE BASICS
Swiss, Continental and American fly nonstop from New York to Zurich, starting at around $700 for travel this month. Zermatt is three and a half hours by train from Zurich. The Swiss rail system (www.swisstravelsystem.ch) has a special Swiss Transfer Ticket for 127 francs, about $100 at 1.25 francs to the dollar, round trip from the airport.
Hotel rates in Zermatt vary throughout the year. In ski season, rooms at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof (Bahnhofstrasse 55; 41-27-966-66-00; www.zermatterhof.ch), the luxury hotel synonymous with Old World belle époque elegance, start at 700 francs for a double.
Across the street, the historic Hotel Monte Rosa (Bahnhofstrasse 80; 41-27-966-03-33, www.seiler-hotels.ch) has doubles starting at 500 francs during the season.
The Hotel Mirabeau (Untere Mattenstrasse 12-14; 41-27-966-26-60; www.hotel-mirabeau.ch) offers cool, modern décor that is the antithesis of mountain kitsch, with doubles starting at 540 francs. The spa offers a warm Swiss chocolate massage from 120 francs.